PIDDINGHOE TO PARIS BY PEDAL POWER

Not sure why we wanted to do it, but after our London to Brighton cycle ride 2 years ago, we thought we could conquer the world, and Paris seemed to be the next step. It required a bit of planning but we found a fantastic route on the web courtesy of Donald Hirsch (donaldhirschparis@gmail.com) who had devised and researched a route that had the rationale of “A low traffic cycle ride” that followed minor roads and forest tracks suitable for any bike, including road bikes.

Luckily he also included an accommodation guide with ratings for, and from bike riders, most of which turned out to be pretty accurate.

We left Piddinghoe early one Thursday morning in July to catch the 9am ferry to Dieppe from Newhaven. It is really quite strange joining the queue of cars to check in, and then being put in our lane, everyone else were sitting in their cars waiting, whilst we had to stand by our bikes, trying to look cool, not easy with cycle shorts on and  bikes loaded with panniers!

The ferry trip was uneventful, but very pleasant with a full cooked breakfast, for me. I think Jane had half an apple, she knows how to spoil herself. We were nearly first off the ferry at Dieppe and remembering to cycle on the right, we were on our way. The very first traffic test is a large roundabout just outside the ferry port, surprisingly we managed it well and after that never had a problem with cycling on the “wrong” side of the road.

I had planned for 25 miles on the first afternoon to the small town of Neuchatel En Bray. Should have been a piece of cake, but we had not factored in a temperature of 40 C. Although we were on the Avenue Verte, which is an old railway converted to a multi user track, it was really hard going.  We eventually arrived and staggered up the steps to the hotel, looking like we had just marched across The Sahara, to be greeted by the hotel owner, who gave us a look as if to say all his English customers arrived in this state. However after a cool shower and an hours sleep we were ready for the night life. Found a bar 2 seconds away from the hotel and hit the beer. Surprisingly within 10 minutes we were fully revived and looking forward to the next day.

Hotel Les Airelles was good value and had fantastic food, had a slight problem trying to obtain some tap water on the table, but after a few hand signals and help from our fellow dinner guests, the waitress came up with the goods. Note to ourselves, we must learn more French!

The next day we had about 60 miles to cycle, and went through some lovely French country side, villages and towns, nearly all of the route was on quiet roads with very little traffic. Our second night was spent in a magnificent 17^th century chateau, and our bedroom was the biggest I have ever slept in, with wall to wall white carpet. Freshly decorated, so not sure how long the carpet will stay white! It really was a special place to stay with spectacular grounds and dinner served on trays, overlooking the old 14^th century, half fallen down chateau that looked like a film set.  Sorry to leave the Domaine de Montchevreuill but we can always go back again. Highly recommended to anyone.

Our 3^rd day was to take us to just outside of Versailles but unfortunately we will probably remember this day more for the fact that we got very lost, and ended up  cycling on mountain bike trails, through some very overgrown forests, but we always found French people that were happy to point us in the right direction, and they spoke English!

Our hotel that night was a standard Mercure, but it was clean, a good standard and friendly staff, and our bikes were given a conference room, all to themselves, to spend the night in.

The next day we had the amazing experience of cycling through and around the Palace of Versailles and grounds. Entry is free for bikes and the sheer size is breath-taking, no wonder there was a revolution. Can you imagine a royal family that owned such a place with probably many more scattered around France, and to have such power and to spent just indecent amounts of money, whilst the population had to work very hard just to survive. Sounds a bit familiar.

That afternoon we finally arrived underneath the Eiffel Tower, and we had been either on quiet roads or in woods until about a mile away from the tower. We were very pleased and proud of ourselves. We then cycled off to find our last hotel, The Grand Hotel of Paris.

It was very hard to find, not least because it had changed its name to just the Hotel of Paris. Grand was missing from the name and also from the hotel. The rooms looked like you could rent them by the hour, so I started looking out for any French or visiting English politicians.

It was suggested by the staff on arrival that we could keep our bikes in our room, on the 6^th floor. Unfortunately the lift was small for one person, and had a spiral staircase running around the lift shaft, so not much chance of bikes in the room, but luckily they relented and found a space by reception for them.

Our last night in Paris was spent in a bar celebrating our adventure and watching the world go by, which was very interesting by the Gare de l’Est. Paris is very multi-cultural, with many different nationalities and dress, similar to a modern London.

The next day we had a typical tourist day and took the open top bus around the city, it really is a great way to see any city and is good to do when visiting any city for the first time. That and take a river ride. It works in London, Paris and many other cities, although probably not Chicago in mid-winter

Eurostar took our bikes and us back home that evening, and if anyone wants to try this, probably best to talk with me, as it’s not that straight forward to get back to Piddinghoe.

Arrived back at midnight, tired but very pleased with our holiday and adventure.

You should try it, cycling is a great way to discover the countryside.

Noel and Jane

Old Cottage